Sovana, in the southern part of ancient Etruria (Tuscany, Central Italy) represents a centre of high historical and artistic values. Its Etruscan necropolis is particularly important, even compared to other centres of ancient Etruria.
Sovana centre was built during the Middle Ages next to a pre-existing Etruscan necropolis. While the presence of the Etruscans is strongly evidenced by the necropolis, the enchantment of the historic center is entirely medieval. Sovana's closely-grouped religious and public edifices illustrate the importance of this town during the feudal era. Sovana was ruled by the Aldobrandeschi family who built a magnificent castle here during the 11th century.

During the medieval era, Sovana was a free municipality and the birthplace of Ildebrando di Sovana, who later became Pope Gregorio VII. After 200 years of freedom the town was placed under the control of the Orsini Counts, who already possessed the towns of Sorano and Pitigliano. Sovana remained this way until the 15th century, when the Sienese conquered the entire territory. In the mid-16th century the Republic of Siena collapsed in spectacular fashion and Sovana fell into the waiting hands of the Medici, who incorporated it into the Gran Duchy of Tuscany.
During this period, Pope Gregory VII was born here. Its splendor lasted until about 1300, when it began a slow decline that lead to its complete abandonment in the 19th century. The village has been reborn in the last ten years, thanks to the discovery of the great Etruscan necropolis and, today, is a favorite destination of academics and tourists.

Once you have crossed the threshold of the Rocca Aldobrandesca, you can continue on to Piazza del Pretorio, which has several interesting buildings, such as the Church of Santa Maria, dating from the late Romanesque period, the Palazzo dell’Archivio, with its strange clock, and, facing the church, the Palazzo della Loggia and the Palazzo Pretorio.
The Palazzo Pretorio, which was largely rebuilt by Siena in the 15th century, has nine coats of arms of the Sienese governors on the facade, and houses a small, but interesting, museum of the area's history and archeology. On the adjacent Loggia del Capitano is a large Medici coat of arms carved in marble. On the opposite side of the piazza is the Church of Santa Maria Maggiore.

Via del Mezzo is the last stretch of Via Duomo. It is completely paved in terracotta and herringbone brick tiles and lined with medieval style houses, almost all of which still have the characteristic medieval stairs. Many of these houses also a “Porta del Morto” or “Gate of the Dead”, a door used when someone in the house had died. In reality these access points were one door up from street level and built to defend residents in times of danger. In the Middle Ages, most of these houses were only accessible by a peg ladder attached to this door and the ladder was removed at night for added protection.

In the immediate vicinity, you will find the fascinating Sovana Necropolis, with many tombs of various types. Don't miss the Necropolis of Poggio Felceto, where you will find a complex of spectacular tombs including the Tomb of Hildebrand, the masterpiece of all Etruscan burial places. In Sovana, you can also experience a walk in the enchanting Vie Cave, imposing walkways excavated from the tufa by the Etruscans, perhaps as communication lanes, perhaps for magic rites. Among the best known is the Cavone, with tombs cut into the rock and inscriptions.

The cathedral

Now isolated from the rest of the town, the Cathedral rises on the western strip of the block of tuff dominating the valley of the necropolis. It exhibits various styles - Lombard, Romanesque, Gothic - in correspondence with the different periods in which it was constructed.
The Duomo was built on the foundations of a pre-existing building at the end of the 11th century under the watchful eye of Pope Gregorio VII. Today the cathedral is one of the most artistically significant buildings in the territory with its tenth century octagonal dome and rich decorations created with tiles taken from the original church. Under the cathedral’s apse is a 7th century crypt.
There are exquisite sculptures dating to this epoch on cornices and capitals, especially those of the portal and of the lunette over the main entranceway.
Inside you will find the tomb of St Massimiliano and his burial urn, as well as a baptismal font, which dates back to 1434 and was shaped from traventine rock and decorated with sacred symbols and precious jewel figurines.

The Aldobrandesca Fortress

Rocca Aldobrandesca, probably built over a pre-existing Etruscan/Roman fortress. The current appearance dates from its 1572 renovation, when the bastions were added. Dismantled in the 17th century, today only the portal, a tower and a stretch of walls remain.

This magnificent fortress rises on a tufaceous rock cliff overlooking the gorges formed by the Calesina and Folonia rivers. This hawk-like position was a key defensive element used to make Sovana inaccessible. Built in the 11th century and later restored by Siena and the Medici, its underground passages were connected to Sovana's other gateways, allowing for the rapid movement of troops.
The reddish fortress we see today was restored in 1572, when additional features were added. As history saw Sovana increase the margin of social and economic development, succumb to decline of the Orsini Counts and lose all its castles to the Gran Duchy of Tuscany, the Aldobrandesca Fortress was stripped of all its military importance. In the 17th century, the fortress was dismantled together with the slow decline of Sovana itself, and, after many centuries, became one just big ruin. Today only the doors, walls and one tower remain from the original fortress. However, the symbols of the mastery architecture used to build the castle continue on in these remaining features.

Loggia del Capitano The Captain’s Lodge is right next to the Palazzo del Pretorio and is a portico structure held up by two arches which rest on one pillar and are embellished by the emblem of Niccolo the First, who lived here in 1570.

Via del Duomo or Via di Mezzo

The intricate 16th century fishbone patterned paving of the Via di Mezzo, the main street, has recently been restored. In the Piazza del Pretorio, at the end of this street is the 13th century Chiesa di Santa Maria Maggiore, one of the most beautiful in Tuscany. You can learn more about the history of the area in the nearby Palazzo Pretorio Museum and in the Torre dell'Architetto find an ancient clock which is operated by a system of weights. From the Piazza you can walk through gardens and olive groves, once thoroughfares, to the huge Duomo.

The Church of San Mamiliano, a medieval church built on the ruins of an Etruscan building, is maybe the most ancient of the village.
The Museo di San Mamiliano houses a unique treasure of 498 gold coins founded in the San mamiliano Church in the 2004. The coins are from the 420 a.C. to 550 a.C.

Polo Museale di Sovana - Museo di San Mamiliano
Sovana,Ppiazza del Pretorio
www.museidimaremma.it 

Opening hours
Dal 29 marzo al 6 ottobre aperto tutti i giorni con orario: 10-13 e 15-19; Dal 7 ottobre al 3 novembre aperto tutti i giorni con il seguente orario 10-13 e 15-18; Nel ponte dell’Immacolata Concezione, e dal 26 dicembre al 6 gennaio 2014 compresi con orario 10-13 14-17. Giorno di chiusura: Mercoledì (eccetto festivi e mese di agosto). 

Etruscan terracottas in the Museo di San Mamiliano, Etruscan statuettes

Via cava di San Sebastiano We continue along the path from the Mermaid Tomb. This is an old Etruscan road that linked the Tollena plateau with the Fiora valley. It gets its name from a church that stands at the opening of the valley. The path, which is entirely covered with vegetation is in a deep gorge, that is overlooked by ancient tombs in the tufaceous cliff.